In these years some manufacturers of airless spray units launched the absurd spot “piston airless is better than diaphragm one”.
Particularly users from Anglo-Saxon countries seem to have absorbed this subliminal leitmotiv: in fact in these countries is quite uncommon to find a diaphragm spray unit, even though they are highly appreciated in continental Europe, former USSR, Arab countries, China, Northern and Southern Africa.
In spite of the evidence, the above mentioned companies convinced millions of users to leave diaphragm airless for piston: in fact diaphragm airless was the real innovation, older users certainly remember it.
Who was not up to develop good diaphragm airless models came back to piston technology and launched a campaign to dissuade users buying diaphragm spray equipment.
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Painting airless involves the use of an airless paint sprayer to apply atomized paint materials at high speeds. Painting airless saves time and reduces labor. Unlike HVLP sprayers, you do not need to use a compressor to paint airless. The airless sprayer pumps the paint at high pressures and forces a fine paint spray through a small spray tip on the spray gun. The misty spray provides uniform coverage. You can use an airless sprayer to paint any interior surface, as well as exterior siding. Painting airless should always involve safe operation of a paint sprayer to avoid injuries.
Mix all your paint together into a clean, empty 5-gallon bucket. Stir the paint together for a couple of minutes. Wheel the airless paint sprayer over to the 5-gallon bucket of paint. Grab the top handle of the sprayer and pull it backwards to raise the dip tube away from the ground. Lower the sprayer and dip tube down again, right into the paint bucket. Strap a half-mask respirator onto your face. Use one that utilizes two disposable cartridges and two pre-filters. Put on safety glasses and work gloves before you begin to spray. Do not spray paint without wearing a respirator. Turn the airless sprayer on. Allow the sprayer to cycle for a minute, to build up pressure. Adjust the pressure by turning the pressure knob. Turn the pressure knob clockwise to increase the pressure, and counter-clockwise to decrease pressure. Experiment a little to find the setting that works best for the surface in which you’re spraying. Too little pressure results in “fingering,” or noticeable paint lines on the surface. Too much pressure results in heavy paint and more over-spray. Insert the appropriate size spray tip into the spray gun. Use .019 tip for latex paint and a .015 tip for oil-based paints. Inspect the gun and make sure the spray tip remains tightly in place. Use a wrench to tighten parts if necessary. Begin spraying, maintaining a reasonable distance of at least 1 foot from the surface. For vertical surfaces such as walls, spray the paint up and down, using an overlapping spray pattern. For horizontal surfaces, spray the paint sideways. Keep a steady motion while spraying and avoid stopping in the middle. Spray the paint from one side of the surface to the other. Remove the paint bucket from the sprayer when you’re finished, and place the dip tube into a 5-gallon bucket of clean water. Cycle water through the spray line for a few minutes until clean water emerges from the spray gun. Turn the sprayer off. Turn down the pressure and squeeze the spray gun trigger to remove pressure from the spray hose. Wrap up the spray hose after releasing the pressure.
Instructions
There are two types of spray systems: air and airless. An air gun mixes siphoned paint material with compressed air and sprays the mixture form a nozzle. An airless gun, on the other hand, uses a pneumatic pump to force paint through the nozzle under high pressure. An airless gun delivers much more material that an air gun and is used for large projects where a fine finish is not required. Large airless guns are the shotguns of the painting world.
- Difficulty:
- Moderate
Instructions
Things You’ll Need
- Air sprayer
- Air compressor
- Canister-style airless sprayer
- Paint
- Solvent
- Respirator
- Rag
-
Air Sprayer Operation
- 1
Unscrew the paint cup and fill it about 3/4-full with paint. Thin this with about 10 percent solvent. Screw the cup back on and connect the air line from the compressor. Turn the compressor on.
- 2
Test the spray on a scrap piece of wood. Adjust the air pressure and the nozzle until you get a fan about 12 inches wide from a distance of about 6 inches. Turn the nozzle to change the orientation of the fan from horizontal to vertical.
- 3
Spray in long, even strokes, keeping the gun about 6 inches from the surface and overlapping about half the width of the fan. The goal is to leave a shiny coat of material that doesn’t drip, sag or separate. When you are done, add another coat moving perpendicular to the direction you just sprayed.
- 4
Disconnect the air, remove the cup and empty it when you are finished. Clean the cup thoroughly with solvent and remove the tip and immerse it in solvent. Leave it there for a while before wiping it clean with a rag.
Airless Sprayer Operation
- 1
Unscrew the cup and fill it with paint. Screw the cup back on, plug in the sprayer and test the spray pattern. If it is chunky or too thin, add solvent to the paint. Adjust the nozzle so that the pattern is about 2 feet wide from a distance of about a foot.
- 2
Keeping the gun a foot or more from the surface, spray in even strokes, overlapping about half the width of the spray pattern. Don’t linger, as the paint will build up quickly, causing sags and runs.
- 3
When you have applied the first coat, add a crosshatch coat in the perpendicular direction. The goal is the same as with an air sprayer: to leave a shiny surface of paint without drips or separation.
- 4
Empty the cup when you are finished and clean it. Remove the tip, immerse it in solvent and clean it well with a rag.
- 1
Tips & Warnings
- Don’t forget to mask off windows, door and other areas not to be painted before you spray. Spread plastic liberally around the painting area, covering furniture, shrubs, floors and pavement.
- The high pressure from an airless gun can penetrate skin. Never point one at yourself or anyone else. Keep hands out of the path of the spray.
- Wear a respirator when spraying any kind of paint.
Instructions
Things You’ll Need
- Paint Sprayer
- Extension Cord
- Drop Cloth
- Spray Shield
- Rags
- Ladder
-
- 1
- 1
Set-up Sprayer and Start Practicing.
Before starting your painting project, reference the owner’s manual and read all of the warnings.
To get familiar with paint spraying, use a large scrap piece of cardboard or plywood and practice your spraying technique. Move your sprayer vertically and horizontally to get a feel for how the spray gun will distribute paint.
- 2
Position Sprayer and Drop Cloth.
To ensure that your sprayer will not mix with any paint chips or dust, shake out any debris from your ground drop cloth. Place clean drop cloth below the area you are about to spray. Move drop cloth as you progress along siding.
- 3
Start Spraying.
Hold the spraying perpendicular to the siding, moving in slow even strokes. Keep the spray gun at right angels to the surface. This means moving your entire arm back and forth rather than just your wrist. Overlap the spray by a third to ensure even paint coverage.
In order to spray like a pro following these guidelines:
- Keep each stroke smooth and at an even speed
- Keep the spray gun perpendicular to surface
- Do not bend wrist while spraying
- When spraying, always trigger the spray gun after spray pass has begun and release trigger before stopping. This will avoid heavy paint built-up on the surface.
- Get the best finish by spraying multiple thin coats rather than a few heavy ones. - 4
Spray Garage Door.
Make sure you have cleaned the surface you are about to paint. If you have used water to clean your surface, make sure you have allowed a minimum of three days drying time. Place a drop cloth at the base of your paint location. Consistently move your sprayer across your garage door holding the trigger as you proceed.
How to Adjust an Airless Paint Sprayer
- Difficulty:
- Moderately Easy
Instructions
things you’ll need:
- Clean bucket
-
- 1
Turn the pressure control knob counterclockwise to the lowest setting before plugging in and flushing the airless sprayer. The pressure control knob is usually on top of the motor housing and can be turned by hand. All sprayers are stored with mineral spirits in the pump and need to be flushed before starting to paint.
- 2
Flush the mineral spirits with water or solvent (if using solvent-based material) and place the pickup tube and siphon in your paint bucket. Push the prime valve until it’s pointing straight down in the open position. The prime valve is a lever, usually on the side of the motor housing.
- 3
Trigger the spray gun into the bucket and allow the paint to flow until it is running smoothly without spitting or bubbles. Turn the pressure control valve up — for most paint it should be turned about 2/3 or a turn clockwise. Thinner materials, like stain and varnish, require slightly lower pressure. Install the spray tip, and you are ready to paint.
- 4
Increase the pressure a little if the motor runs but does not build pressure or if paint won’t come out at all, or comes out in a thin, weak spray. decrease pressure if the paint comes out with such force that you feel it “kicking” your hand back, or if it applies the paint too heavily in an uneven spray pattern.
- 5
Change to a new spray tip if no matter how you tweak the pressure, you cannot get the paint to flow in an even spray pattern without runs or spattering. Spray tips are replacement parts and can wear out quickly with some materials such as latex paint sprayed at high pressure.
- 6
Repeat steps 2 and 3 if the airless sprayer continues to be slow about building up enough pressure to spray.
- 1
Tips & Warnings
- Strain paint into a clean bucket through a paint strainer or clean pantyhose before spraying. It cuts down work stoppages due to clogged tips and filters, and makes all the airless sprayer components last longer.
An airless paint sprayer is the fastest and easiest way to paint just about anything. It has an electrically run hydraulically pump that moves the paint along through a tube from the paint can or bucket to a high pressure hose to a sprayer and out of the nozzle onto the painting surface. It’s an easy concept but it does take a little bit of a knack to do it well so plan on some practice time on some old boards or even newspapers before you use it anywhere that matters.
Difficulty:
Moderately Easy
Instructions
things you’ll need:
- Paint
- Water
- Mineral oil
- Stocking or pantyhose
- Masking or painter’s tape
- Drop cloths
- 1
Start with the preparation. You need to mask off everything really well. A paint sprayer uses a fine mist that can speckle everything around it so keep the whole area around what you’re painting taped off and covered up with drop cloths, including floors (even if you’re working on the ceiling). Open the house up if you’ll be using this indoors and turn on exhaust fans if you have them. You’ll need plenty of ventilation, especially if you’re working with an oil-based paint which has much stronger fumes. Make sure you have on a hat, gloves, long sleeves and pants and glasses.
- 2
Flush the airless paint sprayer with a cleansing solvent before each use. If you’re using enamel paint you can flush it with clean lukewarm water. For oil-based paints you need to flush it with mineral spirits. Each paint sprayer is a little different so read the instructions for specific details. What you’re doing is just running the water or mineral oil through the tubing and out of the sprayer.
- 3
Thin the paint according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The type of paint and the type of sprayer determines exactly what the mix is so follow the directions exactly. If it’s too thin or too thick it will make a terrible mess and it could gunk up the sprayer so you’ll have to tear it down and clean it before you can use it again.
- 4
Paint by holding the spray gun steadily at about eight to twelve inches from the surface so that the paint will go on uniformly. Make sure to keep the nozzle of the paint sprayer pointed straight ahead. If it’s tipped up or down it will have a heavier concentration of paint at the top of bottom that you’ll be able to see. Paint horizontally in a stripe about three feet wide going from the top of the surface to the bottom. Then overlap the next three foot section just a few inches and work the same way.
- 5
Know the tricks of paint sprayers. The whole key to using this sprayer is to get the right amount of paint on the surface. Too little paint shows the surface underneath it and too much paint will make a mess by dripping. Move the gun a tiny bit before you start to spray to prevent paint blobs when you start. Also, let go of the handle just a split second before you get to the end of the area you’re spraying so it won’t blob up there. Never hold the sprayer still. As long as it’s spraying you have to keep it moving. Move it regularly at the same steady speed holding the nozzle straight for the best results. Although there are filters in the sprayer, many pros paint through a piece of old stocking to filter it even better.
- 6
Know the safety tips. Never point the gun at anyone. The paint is released at up to 200 mph with up to 3,000 pounds of pressure per square inch which is enough to cause real damage. Don’t use this in an area with any ventilation as the fumes can cause you to become dizzy or worse. Keep your fingers away from the nozzle when it’s spraying. Don’t touch the tip at all when it’s on. Always unplug the unit before you clean it. After it’s unplugged, squeeze the trigger to release any paint left in the line. If you’re outside, keep all your supplies in the shade. Even the paint shouldn’t sit in the sun, now should any solvents you may be using.
Paint can be applied in a variety of ways.
There are a variety of different paint sprayers on the market. One of the most common is the airless paint sprayer, which is useful for large paint projects, such as a spacious living room.
- Function
- Airless models use a high powered point on the end of the sprayer to push paint out onto the targeted surface. The amount of paint a unit can hold varies, from 1 quart in a smaller sprayer to multiple quarts or gallons if attached to a stationary paint holder.
Types
- Airless paint sprayers come in three pump varieties, including the diaphragm pump, piston pump, and double stroke pump. The lower end diaphragm pumped sprayer is for the weekend paint warriors, whereas the higher end double stroke pump is mainly used by professional painters.
Significance
- The use of airless paint sprayers allows the user to apply paint, from thin viscosity to thick viscosity, in a clean, even way. Also, it enhances safety by alleviating the need to bend and apply paint to a brush or roller multiple times during a job, which can stress the body or cause injury.
- Please visit our web-site for more information: http://www.airlesspaintsprayer-pump.com
While both the conventional and airless striping machines certainly have a place in the market, I do not think that either of them is the “be all…do all”. They’re just different. In the first part of this series we talked about the conventional striping machine, so now let’s take a look at some of the characteristics of the airless.
No Air Compressor = Light
The airless machine has no paint pot and is lighter. But, that doesn’t mean you can just roll the machine up onto the trailer and drive away like you can with a conventional machine. If you do, paint will splash (you’re spraying from an open 5 gallon bucket of paint) causing a huge mess. The solution is to either clean the machine before you travel – even if you have 2 “yellow” jobs back to back, 5 miles apart – or simply cut a hole in the plastic lid that came with the paint bucket. Snap this lid back onto the paint bucket – around the suction tube – and then drive away. I do this. I love it. I’ll clean it later.
Because airless machine has no air compressor you cannot adjust for the thickness of the paint. But, rarely is the paint too thick or too cold. Without the introduction of air the paint is “stuck to itself” and won’t “break up”. This means it won’t fan out and produces a maximum line thickness of 2 inches. Don’t try lifting the gun higher…it won’t work. It doesn’t matter if you hold the gun 2 feet off the ground, you’re only going to get a 2” wide line. And don’t buy a tip that’ll spray an 8” wide line just to get a 4” wide line. Save your money. The fix? I’ve heard that adding a couple of cups of thinner to oil based paint or a couple of cups of water to water based paint will do the trick. Read the paint can on how much you can “reduce” or “thin” the paint. Don’t get me wrong, I love that the airless is lighter, but, on a “conventional” machine you can adjust the air pressure to the gun, introducing more air to the gun – not the paint pot. This “breaks” up your paint, or “atomizes” it, allowing you to produce a wider line. You can also simply “reduce” this paint, just like on the airless machine. Did you notice that to get an 8” line with an airless you need a different tip? This cost can be somewhere between $20.00 and $40.00. To save some money…spray (2) 4” lines side by side for an 8” line and (6) 4” lines…side by side for a 24” STOP BAR. We all do it. “Conventionals” don’t have different tips. The widest line for a conventional is about 6”. Spray lines side by side for 8” – 24”.
The lighter weight also means that if you do hit a small dog or a small walnut while striping, the machine is not as forgiving…it will wiggle. Not a big deal…but this wiggle will translate out to the gun and shake. Again, this is not a big deal. I make sure the gun is tucked closely to the machine and as low as possible to alleviate almost all shake. I also keep an eye out for small dogs.
The Spray Tip
Next…the tip. It’s a tiny little slit of an orifice. If a flake of paint tries to get through, it’ll clog and spray sideways. You’ll hear some contractors say “just turn the tip around and pull the trigger!” Where? On my parking lot? SPLAT. Be wise, don’t move the machine. Simply turn the tip around and bump the trigger for a split second. Turn the tip back and pick up where you left off. But that gets old. Just buy an in-line filter. I did. Now I don’t have any clogs and I never strain paint. Done.
Machine Maintenance and Cost
Here’s more. Just so you know, airless machines aren’t as easy to work on as conventionals and the pieces are a little pricy. The hydraulic motor may cost $1000.00 to replace. Mine is 12 years old. I use it almost every day and it is still going. If it breaks I will spend $1000.00 and have it replaced. But, I couldn’t spend $1000.00 on a conventional machine if I tried. Engines are $400.00 and compressors are about the same. Everything else is either a valve, hose or gauge and these are only $5.00 to $40.00. Also, on an airless there is a hydraulic pump, which is different than the motor. It has a piston and “seals” inside. I have had the piston replaced, but generally speaking all you need to do is replace the seals. I have mine replaced almost every Spring. This is probably too often, but I feel good about it. I want to say this too. I have replaced my own seals on the job. I have also taken the bottom half of the pump off to clear a clog on the job. I found a “paint skin” and put it all back together in 30 minutes. BUT, I’m not bad with a wrench and I believe that anyone can do anything. So…don’t be afraid to work on an airless, they’re just not as easy to work on as a conventional.
Stenciling With An Airless
Stenciling with an airless can be tricky. There’s no way to spray “easy”…pull the trigger and it’s ALL ON. Spray 5 H/C stencils in a row with POW! and the stencil itself is sloppy and will drip. The fix?…spray a few and let it dry. Go spray some lines. Come back and spray some more or wipe it off. With a conventional you can pull the trigger half way and control the volume. It’s a little easier. It’s also easier when you have to “touch up” a curb with your stencil gun. Try “touching up” a curb with POW!
- Spray in well-ventilated areas with good air movement. Use only non-sparking fans if one is needed.
- Remove, extinguish or unplug all ignition sources such as…
- cigarettes
- pilot lights; stoves & ranges, water heaters, furnaces
- all electric appliances
- Put gas powered sprayers outside the building and run the hose into the room to be sprayed. Even though the sprayer is outside, always ground the sprayer to prevent static sparking.
- Keep the work area free of debris that could contribute to a fire such as;
- open or empty paint/material cans
- open or empty solvent/thinner cans
- rags, especially used ones
- paper, masking
- Prevent sparks and static sparking
- Use only grounded hoses
Check hoses periodically for electrical continuity using and ohm meter. - Tape wall switches to help prevent them from being used
- Use only grounded metal pails when spraying/painting, flushing or cleaning
Connect the pail to a true earth ground according to your local electric code.
- Use only grounded hoses
- Ground the sprayer regardless of the power source!Electric Powered Sprayers
- Plug into a properly grounded 3-wire outlet
You should check to make sure that the outlet is actually grounded. (see an easy and inexpensive way to) - Be sure the grounding prong is in place on the cord
If it is missing replace the plug - Use a grounded extension cord of at least 12 gauge wire and rated for 15 amps or more
(more you should know about extension cords)
Gas engine powered sprayers and air (pneumatic) powered sprayers
- Connect the pail to a true earth ground according to your local electric code.
Graco airless sprayers have a grounding lug to use with a ground wire clamp
- Plug into a properly grounded 3-wire outlet
To help prevent injection injuries…
Graco airless spray guns have a tip guard which helps prevent your hand or body coming too close tot he spray tip
- Have the tip guard on the gun when spraying
- Always use the spray gun trigger safety when not spraying
- Relieve fluid pressure when cleaning or servicing any part of the equipment. To relieve pressure, shut off the sprayer, trigger the gun, and open the pressure drain valve.
- Always point the gun away from yourself and others
- Do not try and stop leaks with your hand or body
- Follow the instructions manual when it comes to proper flushing methods, or visit our airless sprayer cleaning page
- Remove the spray tip, reduce the material/fluid pressure and immerse the gun nozzle in the fluid when flushing
To help prevent accidentally triggering/ spraying the gun…
- Put the trigger safety latch on when you are not spraying
This is a good habit to get into - Always keep the trigger guard on the gun! The guard helps prevent the trigger from being bumped or otherwise accidentally triggered
Other safety considerations
- Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from spray material / paint or solvent
- Wear a respirator when using toxic or noxious paint or solvent.
Follow the material manufacturers guidelines to select the correct respirator and or cartridges - Read and save the instruction manuals supplied with the equipment. The manuals contain important information on airless spray safety
A Pintura Airless é um diferenciado sistema de pintura, em que a tinta é pulverizada através de um equipamento de alta pressão, diretamente na superfície a ser pintada, proporcionando alto rendimento (aproximadamente 1000m² por hora), com padrão de qualidade incomparável e grande versatilidade.
O Sistema Airless de Pintura tem a vantagem de cobrir todo tipo de superfície, sendo ela regular ou irregular, e com qualquer tipo de tinta ou revestimento, sem dificuldade, sem imperfeições, e muito mais rápido do que uma aplicação comum e usual.
O Spray Airless quebra o fluido da tinta em pequenas partículas sem a utilização de ar comprimido, sendo ela bombeada sobre alta pressão até o bico de spray, onde a alta pressão faz o trabalho de quebrar a viscosidade do fluido (tinta ou qualquer outro revestimento), sendo expelida como um fluxo sólido e uniforme a uma grande velocidade, proporcionando um jato em forma de leque, obtendo como resultado um filme de pintura homogêneo, plano e uniforme, aplicado sobre a superfície trabalhada, podendo ela ser parede de alvenaria, silo de metal, baú de caminhão ou qualquer tipo de piso.
A velocidade de pintura e a qualidade alcançada são as grandes vantagens do Sistema Airless de Pintura, proporcionando ganho de tempo na conclusão da obra, gerando economia e maior ganho no faturamento final.
Pesquisa realizada pela Associação dos Empreiteiros de Pintura Decorativa da América (PDCA, sigla em inglês), uma associação de profissionais de pintura e profissionais de indústria correlacionados, indicam que a pintura airless pode reduzir entre 50% e 75% do tempo de pintura.
A versatilidade produzida pelos pulverizadores airless podem ser utilizados por uma ampla gama de materiais como vernizes, esmaltes, primes a base de óleos, látex e PVA, acrílicos, elastoméricos, epóxi altos sólidos, 100% sólidos, massas especiais, incluindo a facilidade de movimento para usos internos e externos, e de serem colocados em diferentes locais de trabalhos.
Além da vasta variedade de materiais que podem ser usados pelo Sistema Airless de Pintura há ainda a vantagem do mesmo ser usado em várias superfícies diferentes, tais como pisos de qualquer tipo, baús de caminhão em geral, cascos de navio, silo de metal, parede de alvenaria, de madeira, e etc.